Shirt-collar.



J. SCHEVENELL.

SHIRT COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.30. l9]

Patented Dec. 10, 1918 2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

J. SCHEVENELL.

SHIRT COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILEDYAUGJO 1911.

Patented Dec. '10, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

JAMES SCHEVENELL, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

s Hm'r-ooLLlm.

Specification of Letters Patent. t t 10, 191

Application filed August 30, 1917. Serial No. 189,004.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JAMES SonnvENELL,

a citizen of theUnited States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shirt-Collars, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part thereof.

The purpose of this invention is to provide an improved article of neckwear of the character of a lay-down or turn-over collar, particularly adapted to avoid chafing or wearing out a tie. The lapels of the collar are designed with a slight gap between them, but otherwise presenting an ornamental appearance in harmony with the shirt or tie with which the collar is worn. It consists in the elements and features of construction embodying this invention in one of the forms contemplated.

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the collar shown in Fig. 1, having a four-in-hand tie infolded under the collar and knotted in the front opening thereof, under the lapels,

showing the extent and manner of displacement of the lapels by the knot of the tie.

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing a modified form of collar embodying this invention.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation showing a different modification.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of an article of neckwear of the nature of alay-down or turn-over collar, embodying a further modification of this invention. a

Fig. 6 is a section of the device shown in Fig. 5, as made at the line 66 on said Fig. 5.

. Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the separable lapel member of the collar shown in Fig. 5. Fig. 8 is a detail front elevation, showing a modification in certain details.

Fig. 9 is a front elevation of a further lapels biting into the tie.

which may have the lapels at the front designed to approach quite closely or meet when the collar is buttoned in place, with out liability to chafing a four-in-hand tie knottedunder the lapels in the usualmanner, which with collars of present usual formation does cause the tie to be rapidly chafed and worn away by the edges of the In conjunction with this primary purpose, the invention has also the further purpose of affording a collar in which the lapel portion may be made to match or harmonize with the tie or with the shirt on which the collar is worn, f

or with the suit of the wearer, while the re-' mainder of the collar may be of the usual white or otherplain color.

InFig. 1, 1 represents the customary collar band, or stand, which is made in the customary manner and is designed to be stiffened by the usual laundry processes. 2 is the outer body of the collar, formed in the usual manner in conjunction with the band for receiving the tie and infold it between the band and said outer body; but when constructed according to this invention in the particular form now being described, the lapels, 3, 3, of the outer body of the collar are of different material from the remainder of the body and are soft or pliable, such soft or pliable portions constituting the lapels extending back from the front opening of the collar for a sufficient distance to permit the lapels to swell gracefully over the knot of the tie 5, as shown in Fig. 2, thus embracing the tie by soft pliable edges instead of by the usual stifi' edges of the lapel of collars as customarily made. The lapels,

3, 3, may be provided with means for con necting their terminal portions by link butmanner in which lapels of soft collars may be connected behind the tie and below the knot thereof. The use of such lapel-connecting devices is not material to the invention.

In Fig. 3 there is shown-a modification of the invention in which the soft or pliable.

portion of the collar comprise not only the lapels, but the remainder of the outer body portion from a short distance below the fold. It Will-be obvious that in either of the forms shown in Figs. 1 and 2, or in Fig. 3,

it is possible to make the soft or pliable portion of material continuous with the remainder of the turned down ply of the collar and joined to the band by the usual seam falling inside the fold, the collar in that case being made to embody the present invention in the process of laundering by limiting the application of starch or other stifi'ener to the band and the outer or turn-down ply, as far, for example, as to the seam shown at 3, in Fig. 3, so as to stiffen the band and fold while leaving the remainder of the collar soft and pliable or the starch may be applied to the band and turn-down portion as far as to the seam, 2, in Fig. 2, substantially as indicated by the surface shading representing wrinkling of the unstarched corner portions, as distinguished by surface shading, 3 in Fig. 4. This method of construction can be employed with certain materials; but the probably preferable construction in this respect is that shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, in which the material of the soft or pliable portion is different from that of the stiff portion, and joined to the latter by seaming, because material which can be readily and thoroughly stiffened, as required for the band and fold, would be more difficult to design or construct so as to lie gracefully when unstiffened than material which, being thus adapted to lie gracefully without stiffening, is not so susceptible of proper stiffening by laundry processes.

In Figs. 5 and 6 there is illustrated a further modification of the invention, consisting in that the article of neckwear of the nature of a shirt collar comprises two separable members, the member, A, comprising the band, 1, and the outer lay-down portion, 2, said member being stiff throughout both said portions, and the member, B, comprises lapels, 10, 10, securing or terminal portions, Hand 12, of the band, and the intermediate or connecting portion of said band which consists merely of a tape or a narrow strip, 13, designed to be lodged in the fold of the member, A, together with a tie which is designed to be knotted in the usual manner between and under the lapels, said lapels being extended back from their meetin edges so as to be well engaged under the e ges of the stiff outer lay-down portions of the main collar member, A.

In any of the forms shown, except that of Fig. 4, the lapels may desirably be made of material which presents a difierent surface appearance from the remainder of the collar, being either of different color or with a different attern of weave, presenting a different e act as to appearance, thus adapting the collar to be harmonized or contrasted with the tie which is knotted between the lapels, or with the shirt upon which the collar is worn or with the suit of the wearer, while the remainder of the collar has the In Fig. 8 there is shown a modification consisting in carrying thesoft portion which forms the lapel up to the fold of the collar and over that fold so as to be joined in the seam which connects the main collar body to the neck band. In this modification the stiffness of the neck band is relied upon to uphold the collar at the junction point at the front.

Figs. 9 and 10 show another modification consisting in rendering the lapel portion soft or flexible by omitting at that part one or more of the layers or plies of material which serve to stifi'en the remainder of the body of the collar, the outer or face layer of the collar body alone being shown as continuing to form the lapel. The discontinued layers are in. this case infolded and of the collar; bb the usual filler or stiffening plies; and a the lining. It will be understood that it is not necessary in all cases to discontinue all three of the stiffening members which are shown discontinued in Figs. 9 and 10; but enough of them should be thus discontinued to leave the lapel light enough to be flexible, notwithstanding the amount of starch which would stiffen the body comprising all the thicknesses.

I claim 1. A turned-down collar having the stand and the fold between the stand and the outer or turned-down part stiff, and havin the forward ends or lapels of the turnedown part relatively soft or pliable.

2. In a shirt collar such as set outin claim 1 foregoing, the soft or pliable terminal portion of the turn-down fold being joined to the remainder of the collar by a seam.

3. In a shirt collar such as set out in claim 1, foregoing, the soft or pliable portion of 6. A turn-down collar, comprising a stand I and a fold-over portion having relatively pliable lapels, the entire stand and the main portion of the fold-over portion being stiffene 7. A turn-down collar, comprising a stand 5 and an outer body having pliable lapels, the

entire stand and the main portion of the outer body being stiffened by starch, and the 455 I lapels having each a distinctive, exposed and attached ply.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto 10 set my hand at New York, N. Y., this 22d day of August, 1917.

JAMES SCHEVENELL. 

